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Rocca Carpanea - Grotta di Sant'Antonino

Status Open
NR 38
Area Finalese
Tipologia Grade 6, Grade 7

Grotta di Sant'Antonino has not yet been fully bolted and it could still be expanded. Its pitches are interesting and strenuous. The quality of the material used for bolting this crag is good but it is at times further apart than it would normally be. The most interesting pitches are found inside the cave and are overhanging on tufas, requiring technique and endurance.

 

Grades: from 6a+ to 7b

Rock type: limestone

Orientation: north

Possible when raining: no

Mobile signal: yes

 

1 ATTILA: 7a+, 15m. Overhang on tufas

2 FUCK TOTUM: 7b, 20m. Overhang on tufas

3 PIERA SEI SINCERA: 6b+, 30m. Corner and slab

4 SIMPATICO…: 6b+, 30m. Vertical wall and slab

5 LA CATTIVA STRADA: 6a+, 15m. Vertical wall, slab and corner

6 IL BLASFEMO: 7a+, 20m. Overhang and slab

7 DEVASTAVO: 6c+, 20m. Overhang and vertical wall

 

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How to & Rules

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Check the weather forecast

Pay special attention to AllertaLiguria website and do not set off on your adventure if there should be any weather alerts.

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Respect nature and the territory

Respect nature and the territory

Connect with nature, don’t litter nor be too loud and, as a general rule, respect the territory around you. Nature will thank you and so will we.

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Fire risk

Fire risk

During times of drought avoid lighting fires, choose suitable trails avoiding those in the pine forest and favouring those with alternative routes for going back.

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Emergency numbers

Emergency numbers

Remember: 1515 for forest fires, 112 for medical emergencies. No matter what, always make sure someone knows where you are headed.

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Be careful

Be careful

If it should be a more demanding experience than expected, don't hesitate to retrace your steps.

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Respect other climbers

Respect other climbers

Bear in mind, don’t hog climbing routes, clean up chalk off holds after using them and don’t scatter your things around. It’s always a good idea to gather your belongings in one place.

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If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch and repeating it several times, it is best to use an HMS-type carabiner instead of threading it directly into the maillon to avoid its wear and tear.

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Rappeling

Rappeling

In the “finalese” crags you rarely find fixed carabiners, therefore you’ll have to be able to do a particular type of rappel to lower off.

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Plan your day

Plan your day

Make sure you are well informed on characteristics of the crag you are about to climb (route’s length, grade, exposure, walk-in time).

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