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Rocca Carpanea - Monte Sordo Settore Centrale

Status Open
NR 48
Area Finalese
Tipologia Grade 5, Grade 6, Grade 7

Monte Sordo central sector is one of the most historic and popular crags in the whole Finale area. The base is overall very comfortable, therefore ideal for families with children or animals. Its iconic slabs are very technical and unfortunately polished too. It is recommended for the winter months.

 

Grades: from 5c to 7b

Rock type: limestone

Orientation: west

Possible when raining: no

Mobile signal: yes

 

PILASTRO MATTIA: 6a, 20m. Vertical wall

IL GATTO SELVAGGIO P1: 5c, 15m. Slab

                                         P2: 6a+, 25m. Slab and corner

ESTRANEA: 7a, 35m. Corner and slab

FUTURA P1: 6b, 15m. Vertical wall

                   P2: 6b+, 20m. Overhang and vertical wall

5 FESSURA OLIVA P1: 5c, 15m. Crack

                                P2: 6a+, 20m. Dülfer

                                P3: 6a, 20m. Slab

FEDELI ALLA LINEA P1: 6a+, 15m. Vertical wall

                                      P2: 7b, 20m. Slab

                                      P3: 6c, 20m. Pillar

GIUSY: 6c, 35m. Slab

FRANCO E KETTY: 6b, 35m. Slab

INTROSPEZIONE ELETTROSTATICA: 6b+, 35m. Slab

10 VIA DELLA MARCIA P1: 6a, 30m. Crack-corner

                                        P2: 5c, 30m. Dülfer

11 VEDOVA NERA: 6c, 25m. Hard move to start, then technical slab

12 VENERDI’ 17: 6c, 25m. Slab

13 PLACCA DELLE BIMBE P1: 6a+, 30m. SLab

                                             P2: 6a, 30m. Slab

14 LIVELLI DI BIECAGGINE: 6a, 10m. Slab

15 SIPARIO DI PIETRA P1: 5c, 30m. Corner and crack

                                       P2: 6a, 30m. Slab

16 UMMA GUMMA: 6c, 25m. Corner and slab

17 OVERDOSE: 6b+, 15m. Vertical wall

18 L’ISOLA DI GIAVA: 6b+, 20m. Overhang

19 ABSIDAL: 6a+, 15m. Corner and slab

20 I METEOPATICI: 6a, 25m. Slab

21 LA TANA DELL’ANGUILLA: 6c, 20m. Corner and vertical wall

22 PIPERYTA PATTY: 6c+, 20m. Vertical wall

23 IL FERRANTE: 6a, 30m. Vertical wall

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How to & Rules

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Check the weather forecast

Pay special attention to AllertaLiguria website and do not set off on your adventure if there should be any weather alerts.

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Respect nature and the territory

Respect nature and the territory

Connect with nature, don’t litter nor be too loud and, as a general rule, respect the territory around you. Nature will thank you and so will we.

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Fire risk

Fire risk

During times of drought avoid lighting fires, choose suitable trails avoiding those in the pine forest and favouring those with alternative routes for going back.

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Emergency numbers

Emergency numbers

Remember: 1515 for forest fires, 112 for medical emergencies. No matter what, always make sure someone knows where you are headed.

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Be careful

Be careful

If it should be a more demanding experience than expected, don't hesitate to retrace your steps.

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Respect other climbers

Respect other climbers

Bear in mind, don’t hog climbing routes, clean up chalk off holds after using them and don’t scatter your things around. It’s always a good idea to gather your belongings in one place.

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If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch and repeating it several times, it is best to use an HMS-type carabiner instead of threading it directly into the maillon to avoid its wear and tear.

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Rappeling

Rappeling

In the “finalese” crags you rarely find fixed carabiners, therefore you’ll have to be able to do a particular type of rappel to lower off.

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Plan your day

Plan your day

Make sure you are well informed on characteristics of the crag you are about to climb (route’s length, grade, exposure, walk-in time).

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