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Valle Sciusa e Ponci - Lacremà Settore Basso

Status Open
NR 171
Area Finalese
Tipologia Grade 6, Grade 7, Grade 8

Lacremà lower sector has not yet been totally exploited. In fact, in recent years new routes have been bolted and work is still under way. The fact that its routes are so strenuous and the rock is naturally quite smooth, makes this crag rather unpopular. It is in fact appreciated only by intermediate to expert climbers with a passion for vertical walls.

The base is wide and flat and therefore suitable for families with children or animals.

The access trail is sometimes covered by vegetation (in the last part) and sometimes a secondary trail is used to get to the crag from the left side instead of the right.

Being east facing, this crag is perfect for the warmer months, especially mid-season given the reduced dimensions and the “marble-like” state of the holds that make it not ideal for summer.

 

Grades: from 6a+ to 8b

Rock type: limestone

Orientation: east

Possible when raining: no

Mobile signal: yes

 

FUMO DI LONDRA: 6a+, 25m. Vertical wall

TOMBEUR DE FEMME: 7a+, 20m. Vertical wall

IDROFOBIA: 6c+, 20m. Vertical wall

FATIX: 7b, 25m. Vertical wall

THE ORIGINAL: 8a, 25m. Vertical wall

LE DECLIC: 7b+, 25m. Vertical wall

QUALCUNO TI OSSERVA: 7a+, 20m. Vertical wall

VECCHIA PANTERA: 7a, 20m. Roof

PATHOS: 7a+, 20m. Vertical wall

10 IL TOPO E L’ELEFANTE: 6c, 20m. Vertical wall

11 QUATTRO SPIT DI VELLUTO GRIGIO: 6c, 20m. Vertical                                                                              wall

12 ADIOS: 8a+, 20m. Vertical wall

13 ILA VA' VELOCE: 8b, 10m. Overhang

14 ABACUC: 5c, 10m. Overhang

15 ALZATI E CAMMINA: 7b, 10m. Vertical wall

16 ABACUC DIRECT: 7b+, 20m. Vertical wall

17 OLTRE OGNI LIMITE: 7a+, 20m. Vertical wall

18 NON LO SO ANCORA: 7b+, 20m. Vertical wall

19 SPAZZOLAMI: 8a+, 20m. Vertical wall

20 NON C’È CAMPO: 7b, 20m. Roof

21 MUSICAL BOX: 7a+, 20m. Vertical wall

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How to & Rules

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Check the weather forecast

Pay special attention to AllertaLiguria website and do not set off on your adventure if there should be any weather alerts.

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Respect nature and the territory

Respect nature and the territory

Connect with nature, don’t litter nor be too loud and, as a general rule, respect the territory around you. Nature will thank you and so will we.

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Fire risk

Fire risk

During times of drought avoid lighting fires, choose suitable trails avoiding those in the pine forest and favouring those with alternative routes for going back.

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Emergency numbers

Emergency numbers

Remember: 1515 for forest fires, 112 for medical emergencies. No matter what, always make sure someone knows where you are headed.

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Be careful

Be careful

If it should be a more demanding experience than expected, don't hesitate to retrace your steps.

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Respect other climbers

Respect other climbers

Bear in mind, don’t hog climbing routes, clean up chalk off holds after using them and don’t scatter your things around. It’s always a good idea to gather your belongings in one place.

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If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch and repeating it several times, it is best to use an HMS-type carabiner instead of threading it directly into the maillon to avoid its wear and tear.

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Rappeling

Rappeling

In the “finalese” crags you rarely find fixed carabiners, therefore you’ll have to be able to do a particular type of rappel to lower off.

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Plan your day

Plan your day

Make sure you are well informed on characteristics of the crag you are about to climb (route’s length, grade, exposure, walk-in time).

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