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Valle Sciusa e Ponci - Rocca degli Uccelli Settore Principale

Status Open
NR 184
Area Finalese
Tipologia Grade 4, Grade 5, Grade 6, Grade 7, Grade 8

The main sector of Rocca degli Uccelli is so wide that it can really not go unnoticed. The large red corner, with its historic routes, stands out, making this crag very much recognizable and easy to spot. This rather vast sector offers close to 30 routes, on average 30 meters long and some multi-pitches. Its north-west exposure makes it perfect for the summer months. Also, due to the average level of the routes it never gets too crowded.

Attention: in this sector climbing is banned for nesting of birds of prey from January 1st to July 31st.

 

Grades: from 4b to 8c

Rock type: limestone

Orientation: north-west

Possible when raining: no

Mobile signal: yes

 

SPERONE EST P1: 5a, 10m. Corner

                             P2: 4c, 15m. Vertical wall

                             P3: 4a, 20m. Vertical wall

                             P4: 5a, 20m. Corner

                             P5: 3c, 15m. Slab

PILASTRO DI VALTER P1: 6c+, 35m. Vertical wall

                                        P2: 6a+, 20m. Crack

                                        P3: 7a+, 30m. Vertical wall

                                        P4: 6c, 30m. Vertical wall

NERVI A PEZZI: 6b,+ 40m. Slab

SUPER UCCELLI: 6b, 25m. Vertical wall

VIA DI VALTER: 6a, 25m. Slab

SEPPIA P1: 5b, 25m. Vertical wall

                 P2: 6b+, 25m. Slab

                 P3: 6a, 25m. Slab

                 P4: 6c+, 25m Vertical wall

SCIROCCO: 7b, 30m. Vertical wall

VIA VACCARI P1: 4b, 30m. Vertical wall

                          P2: 5b, 30m. Slab

                          P3: 6a, 30m. Vertical wall

                          P4: 5c, 10m. Vertical wall

COZZA: 5b, 25m. Vertical wall

10 SENZA FANTASIA P1: 6a, 26m. Vertical wall

                                     P2: 4c, 10m. Vertical wall (equipped with old bolt hangers)

                                     P3: 6a, 15m. Vertical wall (equipped with old bolt hangers)

                                     P4: 5c, 10m. Vertical wall (equipped with old bolt hangers)

                                    P5: 6b+, 40m. Vertical wall (equipped with old bolt hangers)

11 MOULIN ROUGE P1: 6b+, 15m. Slab

                                  P2: 7a, 20m. Vertical wall

                                  P3: 7a+, 25m. Vertical wall

12 PLACCA MARCO REBBA: 6c+, 40m. Vertical wall

13 SENZA RISPETTO: 6c+, 35m. Vertical wall

14 STELLA CADENTE: 6b, 35m. Vertical wall

15 TENACE: 7b, 30m. Muro verticale

16 WOMEN’S CHALK: 7a, 30m. Strapiombo

17 UCCELLONI: 7b, 35m. Strapiombo

18 58: 6c+, 20m. Slab

19 I NUMERI SONO NUMERI P1: 6b+, 20m. Overhang

                                                  P2: 7b, 20m. Vertical wall

20 DELFINO CURIOSO: 8a, 25m. Vertical wall

21 MIRANDA DIRETTA P1: 6b, 30m. Crack

                                       P2: 5c, 10m. Vertical wall (equipped with old pegs)

                                       P3: 5c, 20m. Slab (equipped with old pegs)

                                       P4: 5c, 20m. Vertical wall (equipped with old pegs)

22 VOLO D’ANGELO: 6c, 35m. Overhang

23 ALTO PROFILO: 7a+, 35m. Overhang

24 ZETTU: 6a+, 35m. Overhang

25 STILE LIBERO: 6a+, 30m. Corner

26 TEN LITTLE BUNNY: 6a, 30m. Vertical wall

27 COITUS INTERRUPTUS P1: 5c, 20m. Corner/crack (equipped with old bolt hangers)

                                             P2: 5c, 20m. Slab (equipped with old pegs)

                                             P3: 5c, 20m. Crack (equipped with old pegs)

28 U BECCU: 8c, 15m. Overhanging traverse on long boulder

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How to & Rules

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Check the weather forecast

Pay special attention to AllertaLiguria website and do not set off on your adventure if there should be any weather alerts.

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Respect nature and the territory

Respect nature and the territory

Connect with nature, don’t litter nor be too loud and, as a general rule, respect the territory around you. Nature will thank you and so will we.

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Fire risk

Fire risk

During times of drought avoid lighting fires, choose suitable trails avoiding those in the pine forest and favouring those with alternative routes for going back.

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Emergency numbers

Emergency numbers

Remember: 1515 for forest fires, 112 for medical emergencies. No matter what, always make sure someone knows where you are headed.

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Be careful

Be careful

If it should be a more demanding experience than expected, don't hesitate to retrace your steps.

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Respect other climbers

Respect other climbers

Bear in mind, don’t hog climbing routes, clean up chalk off holds after using them and don’t scatter your things around. It’s always a good idea to gather your belongings in one place.

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If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch and repeating it several times, it is best to use an HMS-type carabiner instead of threading it directly into the maillon to avoid its wear and tear.

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Rappeling

Rappeling

In the “finalese” crags you rarely find fixed carabiners, therefore you’ll have to be able to do a particular type of rappel to lower off.

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Plan your day

Plan your day

Make sure you are well informed on characteristics of the crag you are about to climb (route’s length, grade, exposure, walk-in time).

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