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Valle Sciusa e Ponci - Rocca di Corno Settore Sud

Status Open
NR 179
Area Finalese
Tipologia Grade 4, Grade 5, Grade 6, Grade 7

Rocca di Corno southern sector is very visible even from the provincial road below. A 50-meter-high pillar with a great variety of single and multi-pitches, mainly on vertical endurance technical walls. Most of its base is comfortable and, given the exposure, this crag is especially popular in the winter months.

 

Grades: from 4c to7b+

Rock type: limestone

Orientation: south

Possible when raining: no

Mobile signal: yes

 

LA SIGNORA IN ROSSO: 6c+, 25m. Vertical wall

2 IL PESCECANE P1: 6c+, 30m. Crack

                             P2: 5c, 30m. Corner

BLU PROFONDO: 6c+, 20m. Crack/corner

SPENCER TRACY P1: 6b+, 30m. Overhang

                                 P2: 6b, 30m. Vertical wall

VIA DEL PORTALE P1: 6a+, 20m. Overhang

                                   P2: 6c, 10m. Roof

LE MANI: 5c, 15m. Vertical wall

PANORAMA: 5b, 15m. Overhang

VARIANTE ASCARI: 6a, 15m. Vertical wall

9 E SE… SI PROVA DI QUA: 6a, 15m. Vertical wall

10 JAGERMAISTER: 6a+, 15m. Overhang

11 I SOSPIRI DI GASTONE: 5c, 15m. Crack

12 TITOMANLIO P1: 4c, 15m. Slab

                             P2: 4c, 20m. Vertical wall

                             P3: 5b, 20m. Vertical wall

13 IPSILON P1: 4c, 15m. Slab

                     P2: 5c, 30m. Crack

                     P3: 5c, 10m. Vertical wall

                     P4: 5c, 25m. Vertical wall

14 FORA ET LABORA: 6c+, 25m. Vertical wall

15 DESTIN ANIMÈ: 7b+, 25m. Vertical wall

16 PESCEGATTO: 7a, 25m. Vertical wall

17 ODEON: 6b+, 20m. Vertical wall

18 BEI TEMPI: 6c, 20m. Vertical wall

19 IL TOPO P1: 6a, 25m. Crack

                     P2: 5b, 10m. Vertical wall

                     P3: 6c, 25m. Vertical wall

                     P4: 5c, 20m. Corner/crack

20 PROIETTILE UMANO: 6b, 25m. Vertical wall

21 DUE DITA DI VIOLENZA: 6c, 25m. Vertical wall

22 ALCHIMIE D’ESTATE: 7a, 25m. Vertical wall

23 COSTRINGIMI FORTE: 6b, 30m. Vertical wall

24 TEN: 6b, 30m. Vertical wall

25 PICHENIBULINA: 6b+, 30m. Vertical wall

26 FOLLETTO ROSSO: 6b, 30m. Corner/crack

27 SPITGRIP: 6b, 20m. Vertical wall

28 DANIEL STREET: 6b+, 20m. Corner

29 RITMI SOLARI: 5c, 20m. Slab

30 SBRINSA CIUVENDE: 6a, 25m. Slab

31 SCHWANZUS LONGUS: 6a, 25m. Vertical wall

32 INSODDISFATTO?: ?, 15m. Vertical wall

33 DALL’INFERNO NON SI TORNA: 7b, 20m. Vertical wall

34 UTOPIA: 6c, 15m. Overhang

35 SILVESTER: 7b, 15m. Roof

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How to & Rules

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Check the weather forecast

Pay special attention to AllertaLiguria website and do not set off on your adventure if there should be any weather alerts.

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Respect nature and the territory

Respect nature and the territory

Connect with nature, don’t litter nor be too loud and, as a general rule, respect the territory around you. Nature will thank you and so will we.

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Fire risk

Fire risk

During times of drought avoid lighting fires, choose suitable trails avoiding those in the pine forest and favouring those with alternative routes for going back.

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Emergency numbers

Emergency numbers

Remember: 1515 for forest fires, 112 for medical emergencies. No matter what, always make sure someone knows where you are headed.

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Be careful

Be careful

If it should be a more demanding experience than expected, don't hesitate to retrace your steps.

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Respect other climbers

Respect other climbers

Bear in mind, don’t hog climbing routes, clean up chalk off holds after using them and don’t scatter your things around. It’s always a good idea to gather your belongings in one place.

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If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch and repeating it several times, it is best to use an HMS-type carabiner instead of threading it directly into the maillon to avoid its wear and tear.

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Rappeling

Rappeling

In the “finalese” crags you rarely find fixed carabiners, therefore you’ll have to be able to do a particular type of rappel to lower off.

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Plan your day

Plan your day

Make sure you are well informed on characteristics of the crag you are about to climb (route’s length, grade, exposure, walk-in time).

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