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Valle Sciusa e Ponci - Rocca di Corno Sud-Est

Status Open
NR 178
Area Finalese
Tipologia Grade 5, Grade 6

The south-east sector of Rocca di Corno is one of the most historic sectors in this area. It offers ten routes, some of which multi-pitch, but they are equipped with old bolting. The lines that often follow corners and cracks have now lost their grip and are only partly protected by expansion bolts.

The base is however comfortable and suitable for families with children or animals. Given its exposure, the best time for this crag is winter or mid-season.

 

Grades: from 5c to 6c+

Rock type: limestone

Orientation: south-east

Possible when raining: no

Mobile signal: yes

 

IRENE: 6a, 25m. Overhang

CARLA: 5c, 25m. Vertical wall

ANGELA: 6a+, 25m. Vertical wall

VIA DELLA TERZA FESSURA P1: 4c, 25m. Corner

                                                    P2: 4c, 15m. Corner/crack

MICRO SISTEMA: 6a, 25m. Vertical wall

IULIA AUGUSTA: 6a+, 25m. Vertical wall

VIA DELLA PRIMA FESSURA P1: 5c, 30m. Corner/crack

                                                    P2: 5b, 15m. Corner/crack

OSSO DURO: 6c+, 25m. Overhang

IBIS: 6b, 15m. Vertical wall

10 LE FATE: 6b, 15m. Overhang

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How to & Rules

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Check the weather forecast

Pay special attention to AllertaLiguria website and do not set off on your adventure if there should be any weather alerts.

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Respect nature and the territory

Respect nature and the territory

Connect with nature, don’t litter nor be too loud and, as a general rule, respect the territory around you. Nature will thank you and so will we.

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Fire risk

Fire risk

During times of drought avoid lighting fires, choose suitable trails avoiding those in the pine forest and favouring those with alternative routes for going back.

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Emergency numbers

Emergency numbers

Remember: 1515 for forest fires, 112 for medical emergencies. No matter what, always make sure someone knows where you are headed.

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Be careful

Be careful

If it should be a more demanding experience than expected, don't hesitate to retrace your steps.

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Respect other climbers

Respect other climbers

Bear in mind, don’t hog climbing routes, clean up chalk off holds after using them and don’t scatter your things around. It’s always a good idea to gather your belongings in one place.

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If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch and repeating it several times, it is best to use an HMS-type carabiner instead of threading it directly into the maillon to avoid its wear and tear.

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Rappeling

Rappeling

In the “finalese” crags you rarely find fixed carabiners, therefore you’ll have to be able to do a particular type of rappel to lower off.

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Plan your day

Plan your day

Make sure you are well informed on characteristics of the crag you are about to climb (route’s length, grade, exposure, walk-in time).

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